PLUS ÇA CHANGE

This experience is so much more than just a cooking lesson. Not only is it a tasty introduction to Sicily’s cuisine, but also a chance to dip a finger into regional history and culture. An enterprising duchess, who also happens to be a fabulous self-taught cook, will open the doors of her private home and share her secrets with you.

In the setting of a historic seafront palazzo – the last residence of Prince Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, author of the world-famous novel The Leopard – gourmands will learn how to create a delicious meal in true Sicilian style. “If we want things to stay as they are, things will have to change” goes the famous quote from his masterpiece. Your hostess, a noblewoman turned cooking instructor, appears to embody the essence of this aphorism: she has changed her lifestyle in order to keep alive her 18th century home and all the associated traditions.

You begin your day relishing the sights, scents and sounds of Palermo’s vibrant open-air food bazaar. Here, as you amble past the market stalls, you will gain a glimpse of the city’s food-centred culture. Hear noisy hawkers loudly proclaim the quality of their wares to encourage passing trade; admire stands brimming with a tempting assortment of produce that will make your mouth water; feast your eyes on crisp green vegetables, juicy fruits, exotic spices, the freshest of fish; watch bargainers as they haggle for the best deal. Your hostess will point out her favourite haunts, show you how to select the seasonal ingredients needed for the cooking lesson and fill you in on the rituals of vendors and shoppers. As in other aspects of daily life in Italy, when searching for the very best produce on offer, personal relations are fundamental. Loyal and reliable service from the seller and regular trusted custom on the part of the buyer result in a mutually satisfactory exchange and a felicitous balance – one which it is unwise to upset!

Back at the palazzo, after picking flowers and herbs from the garden, head for the kitchen and engage in a hands-on cooking class. As the duchess guides you through the preparation of a four course meal, you will discover traditional recipes, try out infallible cooking techniques and pick up tricks you can use to impress your friends back home at the dinner table.

Next, take a seat in the dining room and, together with the duchess and the other participants in the class, enjoy the meal you just prepared, seasoned with intriguing tales about Palermo and your hostess’s family memories.

A visit to the beautifully-restored palazzo, preserving the original manuscript of The Leopard, will be the perfect conclusion to a delightful Sicilian day.