THE RETURN OF THE WARRIOR

Turn back the clock and plunge into Abruzzo’s centuries-old history on this full-day excursion to Chieti and Guardiagrele.

Situated between the rivers Pescara and Alento, close to the region’s majestic mountains and just fifteen kilometres from the Adriatic coast, Chieti is a charming hilltop town with a rich and riveting past. No one knows exactly when it was first established. If you trust the legend, the town was founded in 1181 BC by Achilles and named Teate as a tribute to the mythological hero’s mother, Teti. While you wander through Chieti’s streets, you will certainly come across the coat of arms featuring Achilles on a prancing horse, evidence of an enduring fascination with the town’s origins and the local affinity for tradition. Whatever the true story, we know Chieti certainly pre-dates the Romans and was once the capital of the powerful Marrucini, an Italic tribe that settled in the Chieti area during the 1st millennium BC.

Your private chauffeur will pick you up at your accommodation and drive you to Chieti. Your guide will be waiting at the meeting point ready to lead you on a trail through the town’s centro storico, past ancient Roman ruins, inside elaborately decorated churches, across splendid piazze, while unravelling its thousand-year history. Your tour begins in Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, the very heart of Chieti, home to the Cathedral of San Giustino. Consecrated in 1069, the church we can admire today is the result of successive reworkings and renovations carried out up until the 20th century. Among the precious works of art to be found inside are a 16th century marble baptismal font, canvas paintings by 18th century masters Saverio Persico and Ludovico de Majo and Ferdinando Mosca’s finely carved wooden choir. Don’t miss the underground crypt housing the relics of the patron Saint Giustino and frescoes from the 1400s.

From here a leisurely stroll will allow you to discover many of Chieti’s picture-postcard landmarks: the 19th century Marrucino Theatre, whose saison d’or starred artists such as Eleonora Duse and Irma Gramatica, the main promenade of Corso Marrucino, flanked by elegant palazzi and Baroque-style churches, and the striking remains of three ancient Roman temples dating to the 3rd century BC.

No tour of Chieti would be complete without visiting the National Archaeological Museum of Abruzzo located inside the Neoclassical-style Villa Frigerj. Here guests will come face to face with the world-known Warrior of Capestrano, a 6th century BC pre-Roman sculpture portraying a male figure in military attire with arms folded across his chest. This 2-metre tall limestone statue, accidentally unearthed by a farmer in 1934 while he was ploughing his field, probably depicts an ancient tribe leader and served a funerary purpose. Although the statue – and the civilisation that produced it – is still shrouded in mystery, your guide will explain why the Warrior of Capestrano is among the most significant discoveries ever accomplished in Abruzzo and how it has helped shed light on the Italic population that ruled over the region for centuries before being conquered by the Romans. Noteworthy pieces also include a 1st century BC Roman statue of Hercules, a collection of coins dating from the 4th century BC to the 1800s, ancient jewellery and grave goods.

After some free time for lunch rejoin your driver and head for Guardiagrele, also known as the “Terrace of Abruzzo” thanks to the sweeping views of the surrounding valleys and mountains to be admired from its panoramic belvedere. Founded by the Normans, Guardiagrele reached the peak of its splendour in the 14th century when it became a prosperous trade centre. Traces of Guardiagrele’s golden age still survive within its medieval layout, crossed by narrow alleys and punctuated with stone towers and graceful palazzi. Among the highlights are the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, with its splendid Gothic portal, and the 14th century Torrione Orsini, named after the family that ruled over the town in the Middle Ages.

But most of all Guardiagrele is famous for its age-old manufacturing traditions. The town was the birthplace of Abruzzo’s most famous goldsmith and engraver, Nicola da Guardiagrele, and still today, after some five hundred years, it retains an indisputable reputation as the region’s craft capital. Before returning to your accommodation, take a stroll round the centre where shops selling copper goods, pottery, jewellery and a whole range of handmade items entice passersby.