THE MELTING POT

Palermo sits seductively on a north-westerly tip of Sicily, bounded by the cobalt-blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Oscar Wilde fell under its spell, declaring it “lovely. The most beautifully situated town in the world. It dreams away its life in the Conca d’Oro, the exquisite valley that lies between two seas.”

Founded by the Phoenicians as far back as the 7th century BC and appropriately named Ziz, meaning flower, the city blooms with artistic marvels at every corner, delighting visitors with a rich bouquet of Byzantine mosaics, Moorish-style decorations, Baroque frescoes and Neoclassical palazzi. For millennia at the crossroads of civilizations, due to its strategic location at the heart of the Mediterranean, Palermo boasts an unparalleled historical legacy, reflecting traces left by a numerous succession of invaders, all eager to leave their indelible mark on the city. A heady, flamboyant mix of architectural styles attests to the coexistence of different traditions, customs and beliefs and lives on as an outstanding example of a fruitful syncretism between Western, Byzantine and Islamic cultures. The souk-like atmosphere of Palermo’s noisy markets rubs shoulders with the peaceful aura of hidden, hallowed cloisters, tropical date palms thrive alongside the sacred walls of Norman churches, interlocking Arabic motifs frame the glittering tesserae of Christian imagery. While you weave your way into the intricately knotted fabric of Palermo, your guide will illustrate the history of the city and explain how a multicultural, cosmopolitan environment led it to flourish and become the full glory we witness today.

A visit to Palermo’s historic street market, dating back to the Moorish domination, will allow you to feel the pulse of daily life in Sicily. Amble through the bazaar enjoying the sensations of the scene: hear the raucous cries of hawkers calling out in dialect to encourage passing trade; admire stalls brimming with a tempting assortment of produce that will make your mouth water; feast your eyes on crisp green vegetables, juicy citrus fruits, the freshest of fish; watch bargainers as they haggle for the best deal. From here it only takes a tiny step of the imagination to picture the sights and scents of exotic wares and oriental spices that Arab merchants would have traded on this very spot 1,000 years ago.

You will then venture along Palermo’s lively streets, cross the Baroque square of Quattro Canti and reach Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio. This church is renowned for its splendid interior, graced by 12th century Byzantine mosaics. Gaze up to receive a blessing from Christ Pantocrator gloriously seated on a throne at the centre of the gleaming cupola, surrounded by archangels and saints.

A short walk will bring you to the grandiose cathedral dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, one of Palermo’s most extraordinary monuments. Built on the site of a 9th century mosque, in turn erected over an earlier Byzantine basilica, the church is a true textbook of architectural history spanning hundreds of years. Norman towers, Arabic patterns, Gothic arches and crenellations, Baroque statues and 20th century bronze panels characterize the unforgettably beautiful exterior. Inside, heavily reworked 18th century naves host the tombs of the great and good, including kings and emperors as well as the earthly remains of the city’s patron saint Rosalia.

No tour of Palermo would be complete without a visit to the city’s crown jewel, the sparkling Palatine Chapel, tucked away inside the Palace of the Normans, former seat of the Kings of Sicily. Built at the request of King Roger II between 1130 and 1144, the chapel reflects the rich cultural fervour experienced during the Norman rule over Sicily and superlative artistic heights reached by yesteryear’s craftsmen. The layout and decor of the interior, with its Western three-nave design, slender Corinthian columns, glimmering golden mosaics and elaborately carved Arabic-style wooden ceiling is a brilliant blend of Latin, Byzantine and Islamic traditions.