SCENES OF SICILY

“Were a man to spend only one day in Sicily and ask, What must one see? I would answer him without hesitation, Taormina. It is only a landscape, but a landscape where you find everything on earth that seems made to seduce the eyes, the mind and the imagination”. Well over a hundred years have gone by but French author Guy de Maupassant’s words still strike a chord today, as you will have the chance to discover on a leisurely stroll through the island’s long-established and most fashionable summer resort.

Meet your private guide and driver at your accommodation in Catania and relax on the ride to Taormina. The town occupies a spectacular position on a rocky slope of Mount Tauro, high above the glittering Ionian Sea. A chic, glamorous atmosphere pervades the town’s historic centre which is punctuated with graceful buildings, upscale boutiques and gift shops selling traditional trinkets and souvenirs. Ice cream parlours and pastry shops, full to the brim with a tempting assortment of cannoli, granite and gelato, contribute to making this the ideal spot to get a true taste of Sicilian Dolce Vita. Unforgettable panoramas of Mount Etna and the eastern Sicilian coastline complete the picture.

Taormina’s web of medieval alleys sprawls out from the main thoroughfare of Corso Umberto. As you amble along this vibrant street, stretching between the two city gates of Porta Messina and Porta Catania, your guide will point out the town’s famous highlights. You will take a close look at the fantastical creatures that guard the Baroque-style fountain in Piazza del Duomo, inspect the splendid portals of the Cathedral of San Nicola and admire the marvellous seascapes from the terrace of Piazza IX Aprile. Another of Taormina’s treasures is Palazzo Corvaja, a true textbook of architectural history, blending different styles and bearing witness to the influence of successive Arab, Norman and Spanish invaders in Sicily. The municipal gardens of Villa Comunale, created by Florence Trevelyan, an Englishwoman who planted rare botanical species here and erected the fanciful Victorian stone follies, are also well worth a visit.

But Taormina’s best-loved landmark is undoubtedly its ancient theatre, carved directly out of the rock. Built by the Greeks in the 3rd century BC as a venue for drama and music performances and later renovated by the Romans to host gladiator fights, the site still continues to stage shows and concerts in which internationally acclaimed stars take part. From here drink in the glorious scenery of the azure waters of the Bay of Naxos and the volcano smoking serenely against the azure sky, before sitting down for some free time for lunch.

In the afternoon a short drive will bring you to tiny Castelmola. Perched on a craggy hilltop 500 metres above sea level, this charming town grew up around the ruins of a medieval castle that was originally built to survey and defend Taormina below from the attacks of Saracen pirates. An arch welcomes visitors to Piazza Sant’Antonio, a wide square with black-and-white stone tiles, commanding surprising and beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. No doubt you will notice Caffè San Giorgio, one of Castelmola’s most popular institutions. First opened by monks in the 1700s, the cafe owes its fame to its early 20th century proprietor Don Vincenzo Blandano, the inventor of a special almond-flavoured wine recipe. Tourists who reached Castelmola on foot by climbing up a steep slope used to be welcomed with a glass of this nectar proffered by the friendly Don Vincenzo himself. The beverage is now a source of pride and considered one of the town’s notable accomplishments.

From here a pleasant walk along the main route of Via Alcide De Gasperi will allow you to discover all of Castelmola’s picture-postcard sights, including its pastel-hued houses decked with blooming balconies, quaint shops selling pottery and gastronomic specialities and the small stone Church of San Giorgio. The Turrisi Bar remains Castelmola’s most bizarre attraction. Take a peek inside to examine its unusual decor, the backdrop of hilarious aperitivo hours since the 1970s. The bar’s interior is indeed filled with phallic ornaments of every size and style possible, from chair arms to lamps, from menus to bathroom taps, celebrating the ancient emblem of fertility and fortune as well as the more risqué and libertine aspects of the region’s history.

In the afternoon your private chauffeur will drive you back to your accommodation in Catania.