POSTCARDS FROM UMBRIA

Step into a picture postcard of medieval Umbria on this full-day excursion to two of the region’s most popular towns.

Your private chauffeur will meet you at your accommodation and drive you to Assisi, world-renowned as the birthplace of Saint Francis, patron saint of all animals, nature and of Italy itself. You will retrace his steps on a walking tour through the streets and squares of this city-sanctuary, exuding peace and spirituality at every corner, and hear about the legendary life of one of Roman Catholicism’s most cherished and widely worshipped personalities. Born around 1181, son of a wealthy merchant, Francis of Assisi abandoned his dissolute life after hearing the voice of God who commanded him to rebuild the Catholic Church and live in poverty. Francis gave up his worldly possessions, became a devoted Christian and founded the Franciscan Order in 1209. He died on October 3, 1226 and was canonized a saint just two years after his death on July 16, 1228. On that same day Pope Gregory IX laid the first stone of the future Basilica which was to become the mother Church of the Order of Friars Minor, one of Italy’s most famous pilgrimage destinations and a treasure trove of priceless medieval masterpieces, attracting thousands of faithful visitors and art lovers every year.

Traces of the town’s 2,000-year-old history still survive within its pristinely preserved medieval historic centre. Your starting point is the site of a long-lost ancient Roman amphitheatre. Having served as a rich mine for building material in the Middle Ages, the original structure is no longer standing though the spot still provides a fascinating glimpse into Assisi’s early beginnings and development throughout the ages, as well as wonderful views of the imposing 14th century fortress that looms over the town. From here, follow your guide along narrow alleys, past charming piazze on a quest for significant landmarks in the life of Saint Francis. You will come across the Cathedral of Saint Rufino, where he was baptized, and take a peek inside the Basilica of Saint Claire to find the holy Crucifix that triggered Saint Francis’ spiritual awakening. The nearby 17th century Chiesa Nuova was supposedly built on the site of the childhood home of Saint Francis. It was here, inside a small cell that can still be seen, that his father Pietro di Bernardone locked him up in chains in an attempt to discourage him from exchanging his comfortable lifestyle for one of poverty. Another notable feature of the town is Assisi’s main square, the picture-postcard Piazza del Comune. It sits on top of the remains of an ancient Roman forum whose strikingly well preserved 1st century BC classical temple was converted into a church in the 1500s.

Last but not least, is a visit to the town’s most iconic monument: the Basilica of Saint Francis. The spectacular complex is built into the side of a hill and is comprised of two independent churches on two different levels, the Lower and Upper Basilica. An underground crypt houses the earthly remains of the saint, buried secretly here shortly after his death to prevent ransacking by relic hunters, only to be rediscovered six hundred years later, in 1818. The greatest artists of the 13th and 14th centuries, including Giotto, Cimabue, Pietro Lorenzetti and Simone Martini, are responsible for the splendid decorative fresco cycles that grace the walls and ceilings of the complex, a cornerstone for understanding the development of Italian art in the Middle Ages. Your guide will lead you past the churches’ highlights and explain the meaning of the painted scenes, illuminating details of the life and miracles of Saint Francis.

After some free time for lunch rejoin your driver and reach your next destination. Perched on the southern slopes of Mount Subasio, Spello is a pretty little town with a remarkable artistic and cultural heritage. A jumble of honey-hued stone buildings with weathered wooden doors and terracotta roof tiles huddles on a hillside, enclosed by walls from the Augustan age. Five ancient Roman gates welcome visitors to the old centre, beckoning them in to explore its magical maze of alleys adorned with blooming balconies and hanging baskets. On the day of Corpus Christi additional splashes of colour are provided by the marvellous flower carpets created for the Infiorata Festival, Spello’s most famous religious celebration. Every year, on the ninth Sunday after Easter, green-fingered citizens try to outdo each other by assembling leaves and petals in elaborate compositions, turning the streets into a riot of hues and scents.

You will certainly visit the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, housing Spello’s most prized jewel. Here Pinturicchio, one of the greatest artists of the Renaissance, decorated the Baglioni Chapel in 1501 with precious frescoes featuring Scenes from the Life of the Virgin Mary and Christ’s Childhood. Your guide will point out features of particular significance and explain how the painter’s skilful use of a brilliant palette, his realistic representation of space, perspective and light and painstaking attention to detail have earned this cycle its rightful place among the masterpieces of the history of Italian art. Just a few steps away, inside the Church of Sant’Andrea you may admire another of Pinturicchio’s works, the splendid 1508 panel painting portraying a Madonna enthroned with Saints. From here a short walk will take you to the monumental Porta Venere gate and Towers of Properzio where you will turn the clock back to the 1st century BC and hear about Spello’s early beginnings as a prosperous Roman colony. Not to be missed are also Piazza Comunale, dominated by the elegant 13th century town hall, and the Belvedere, a panoramic terrace from which you will take in sweeping views of the verdant Umbrian landscape.