ON THE GRAPEVINE

Set among gently rolling hills and vineyards, thirty kilometres from Ancona, Jesi is a beguiling little town with a remarkable artistic heritage and a vibrant cultural life.

Its origins date way back in time and can be ascribed to the ancient Umbri tribe, though the town as we know it today started life in 247 BC when the Romans established the colony of Aesis. The town flourished thanks to its strategic location along the Via Salaria Gallica but it was a chance event on December 26, 1194 that sparked Jesi’s fame and changed the course of its history forever: the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II was born here while his mother, Constance of Altavilla, was travelling to Apulia. The future Stupor Mundi or “Wonder of the World” – as Frederick was nicknamed, owing to his stirring deeds – was born in a royal tent in Jesi’s main piazza, formerly the Roman forum. Thanks to the emperor’s benevolence and special connection with the town, Jesi acquired the title of Royal City, was granted rights and privileges and remained an independent republic for more than a century.

Your private chauffeur will meet you at your accommodation and drive you to Jesi. Here your guide will be waiting ready to lead you on a tour of the town’s most famous monuments. Sturdy walls, amazingly intact after six hundred years, encase a handsome historic centre which preserves the footprint of the ancient Roman founding and bears witness to Jesi’s medieval and Renaissance heyday. Your visit begins in Piazza Federico II, named after the emperor who is believed to have been born on this very spot. The Obelisk Fountain occupies the centre stage while all around are 16th to 19th century buildings, including the Rococò-style Palazzo Balleani and the Neoclassical Cathedral of San Settimio. A few steps down Via Pergolesi and you will find yourself in Piazza Colocci, facing the late-15th century Palazzo della Signoria, a masterpiece by Siennese architect Francesco di Giorgio Martini. Your guide will certainly point out the rampant lion above the entrance, proclaiming the power the town once held. Carry on along Via Pergolesi to Piazza della Repubblica, Jesi’s largest square. Here you will see the 18th century Pergolesi Theatre, the setting of a prestigious autumn opera season, named after another of the town’s famous sons, composer Giovanni Battista Pergolesi, born in Jesi in 1710. Not to be missed is Palazzo Pianetti, standing nearby in Via XV Settembre and home to the Civic Art Gallery. Take a look inside to admire the Rococò-style decorations of the Galleria degli Stucchi as well as the priceless works of art in the collection, including some of Lorenzo Lotto’s finest paintings. Your morning will end with a visit to the Gothic Church of San Marco, housing precious 14th century frescoes.

After some free time for lunch rejoin your driver and reach a nearby wine estate. The property sits in a splendid position, on hills that dominate the Esino and Musone valleys, and offers marvellous views of the surrounding countryside. When the farm was first established in the 1970s, the owners focused more on cultivating wheat, vegetables and hay and it was only in the 1990s that they began to rethink their goals and focus on producing high quality wine. Certain of the potential of the native Verdicchio grape variety and the great opportunities that could derive from revitalising the heritage, traditions and flavours of this unique territory, they set out to work on revolutionising the company. Today the estate comprises thirty hectares of vineyards, cultivated with local and international varieties of Verdicchio, Montepulciano, Sangiovese and Merlot.

On a tour of the cellar and vineyards, led by a qualified member of staff, you will get to know the different stages in the wine-making process, from the moment of harvest to bottling, and discover the particular characteristics of the terroir and climate that make wines produced here so exquisite. You will also hear about the efforts of the owners to combine respect for tradition, modern techniques and commitment to environmental responsibility. Top off your day with a tasting of the estate’s wines and a toast… cheers to Jesi!

In the afternoon your private chauffeur will drive you back to your accommodation.