IN ESCHER’S FOOTSTEPS

Captivated by the magical atmosphere and never-ending procession of breathtaking landscapes, Dutch engraver Maurits Cornelis Escher took three trips to Abruzzo between 1928 and 1935. Here the artist created a number of drawings featuring quaint hilltop towns, steep alleyways, majestic mountain peaks and peaceful valleys which were later turned into fabulous prints, contributing to the fame of this enchanting corner of Italy. Retrace his footsteps on an excursion to three towns, all immersed in stunning scenery and boasting a remarkable cultural and artistic heritage.

Your private guide and chauffeur will meet you at your hotel and drive you to Anversa degli Abruzzi. Here you will come face to face with the subject of one of Escher’s sketches: a complex architectural maze of narrow streets, sloping steps and arched passageways clings to a spur overlooking the Sagittario gorge, surrounded by a dramatic mountainous landscape. Founded in the Middle Ages, Anversa reached the peak of its splendour between the 16th and 18th centuries when sheep raising, the wool trade and pottery workshops brought prosperity to its inhabitants. Traces of the town’s golden age still live on within its beautifully preserved historic centre, punctuated with charming stone buildings and dominated by the ruins of a 12th century Norman castle. Not to be missed on your stroll about town are the 16th century Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, embellished with a rose window and a finely decorated Renaissance portal, and the 11th century Church of San Marcello, greeting visitors with its wonderful Gothic portal topped by a fresco of a Madonna and Child with Saints.

Later, rejoin your driver and set off for the next stop on your excursion. Your first sight of Villalago will strike you for the sheer drama of its location. The town proudly surveys the marvellous landscape of the Lacu Valley from the summit of Mount Argoneta, at about 900 meters above sea level. A jumble of buildings perches perilously on the edge of a cliff, challenging the laws of gravity… another mind-bending masterpiece of design and perspective for you to observe. Here you may wander round a labyrinth of alleys, stairways and piazzette, pausing to enjoy glorious views of the surrounding mountains and ravine below. You will certainly notice a typical feature of the town, the suppuort arches that support stone houses, along with several different coats of arms carved on the doorways, featuring animals and floral motifs. Highlights include the Romanesque-style Church of Madonna di Loreto, the 19th century town hall with its distinctive clock tower and the Palazzo della Cancelleria, former seat of the university. No tour of Villalago would be complete without visiting the Hermitage of San Domenico, nestled between the rocks and the emerald waters of Lake San Domenico. This structure incorporates the grotto where Saint Domenico used to retreat to contemplate spiritual matters away from worldly temptations over a thousand years ago.

After some free time for lunch, you will be ready to explore the last picture postcard of the day: Scanno, an intricate tessellation of honey hued houses with weathered wooden doors and terracotta roof tiles, set among deep green forested mountains. Here, in this life-size nativity scene where time seems to have come to a standstill, women take pride in wearing their traditional costumes and artisans keep centuries-old traditions alive by practising techniques handed down from father to son. Exquisitely crafted gold filigree jewelry and skilfully embroidered lacework creations are among the surprises to be found in this pretty little town. Make your way through its olde-worlde streets, enjoying the sights of stone buildings and splendid palazzi adorned with elegant portals, cornices and balconies. Along the way your guide will point out features of particular significance and fill you in on the history of the town, from its ancient Roman origins, through its expansion in the Middle Ages, to its 17th and 18th century heyday as a prosperous wool trading centre. Worthy of note are the Church of Santa Maria della Valle and Church of Madonna di Costantinopoli, both housing traces of Renaissance frescoes, the Church of San Giovanni, displaying wooden and papier-mâché statues of religious personages, and the Church of the Madonna del Lago, scenically located on the banks of the heart-shaped Lake Scanno.

Return to your accommodation in the afternoon after a day of full immersion into Abruzzo’s charms.