HEAD OVER “HILLS”

An all-time favourite with city slickers in need of a break from the hustle and bustle of the metropolis, the Castelli Romani are a handful of thirteen towns in the Alban Hills, located 20 kilometres south-east of Rome. Since Ancient Roman times the Castelli Romani have provided a tranquil respite for emperors and wealthy families who appreciated the area pretty much for the same reasons that visitors do today: a pleasant climate, splendid vistas, lush valleys and refreshing lake waters. Add Renaissance and Baroque treasures and gastronomic delights, such as succulent porchetta, tasty cheese, fragrant Frascati wine and strawberries and you have the perfect summer retreat for both locals and tourists. You’re sure to fall head over heels for the Roman countryside too.

Your private guide and chauffeur will pick you up at your accommodation in Rome and drive you to Castel Gandolfo. This charming hilltop town is dominated by the Apostolic Palace, the former papal summer residence. Once a place for private contemplation where pontiffs came to meditate and relax far from the confusion and heat of the capital, the palazzo is now open to the public. Your guide will show you around what were until not long ago the apartments of the head of the world’s smallest state. A visit to the throne room, bedroom, dining room and chapel offers guests a glimpse of the pope’s holiday lifestyle. Among the other sights you ought not to miss on your walk through Castel Gandolfo are the famous Baroque church designed by starchitect Bernini, quaint shops selling delicious treats and exquisitely hand-made crafts and, above all, the stunning lake views to be admired from the town’s panoramic belvedere.

After some free time for lunch head for the tiny town of Nemi, well-known for its strawberries and for the legendary ancient Roman ships that emerged from the waters of the lake between 1927 and 1933, during one of the greatest underwater archaeological recoveries ever accomplished. Sadly they were completely destroyed during World War II but to imagine two ancient vessels lying on the bottom of Lake Nemi for almost 2,000 years is simply astounding.

No excursion to the Castelli Romani would be complete without visiting Frascati, the most popular town of the Alban Hills since the days of the Grand Tour. One impressed 18th century fan was Goethe, who paid tribute to Frascati in his travel log: “We have had two beautiful days, without rain, warm and genial sunshine; so that summer is scarcely missed. The country around is very pleasant. The village lies on the side of a hill, or rather of a mountain; and at every step the draughtsman comes upon the most glorious objects. The prospect is unbounded. Rome lies before you”.

A leisurely stroll through the old town will allow you to get a feel for local culture and gain a better understanding of Frascati’s inhabitants’ long-standing obsession with wine. Here even the window bars of prison cells were designed to allow jugs of wine to be passed from the outside to detainees! As you amble through Frascati’s picturesque streets and squares, listening to intriguing tales of the town, you will drop in at well-established food stores and enjoy tempting aromas that titillate the palate. Slices of freshly made focaccia from a bakery which has been in operation for over a century and a glass of trusted wine from a historical tavern are among the signature flavours for which Frascati is sure to be remembered.

Take a long last look at the enchanting panoramas before returning to your accommodation in Rome.