EAST IS EAST

Along Apulia’s Adriatic shore lie two popular seaside resorts and the region’s most fascinating archaeological site. Plunge into the history of this sunny stretch of coast on a full-day excursion to the eastern side of the heel.

Your private guide and chauffeur will pick you up at your accommodation and drive you to Monopoli. The origins of the town’s name are still something of a mystery, though the ancient Greek words Monos Polis suggest it must have been highly regarded as a truly “Unique City” ever since its early beginnings. Monopoli’s history, architecture and urban layout were profoundly influenced and shaped by the town’s strategic east-facing position along the Adriatic coast. Its sea-front walls and 16th century castle harbour many a gripping story. For centuries pirate incursions, sieges and invasions shook what is today a sleepy, peaceful fishing village but was once a lively trading hub and Apulia’s busiest port town.

Traces of Monopoli’s heyday still survive within the town’s historic centre, crossed by ribbons of medieval alleys and punctuated with splendid Baroque buildings. As you weave your way through narrow stone streets, you will certainly come across the 18th century Cathedral of the Madonna della Madia, Monopoli’s most famous attraction which safeguards the memory of a prodigious event. Construction began in 1107 but came to a halt after running out of roof beams. According to legend, ten years later, in 1117, a raft carrying a Byzantine icon of the Virgin Mary miraculously drifted into the port and the boards from the raft were used to finish the roof. Though very little is left of the original Romanesque structure, since the cathedral was entirely rebuilt in 1772, the much venerated image of the Madonna, as well as what are believed to be the wooden beams from the raft, are still carefully preserved within the church, giving visitors a view of the serendipitous event that permitted its completion.

Further highlights of your stroll through Monopoli are Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, one of the largest squares to be found anywhere in Apulia, and the column of shame, incorporated within the clock tower in Piazza Garibaldi. Here, as a punishment, those found guilty of crimes were once tied and exposed to public mockery. Views of the old port where fishing boats bob gently in the emerald waters against the backdrop of Palazzo Martinelli’s Venetian-style loggia are among the lasting impressions you will take away with you.

A short drive will then bring you to the lovely coastal town of Polignano a Mare – also known as the “Pearl of the Adriatic Sea”. Its famous bay, set between sheer cliffs, adorns many a postcard, but the town’s historic centre is just as enchanting, with its maze of cheerful streets and squares lined with whitewashed houses and blooming balconies. Here, you may browse a range of irresistible shops, admire breathtaking seascape views from the town’s panoramic terraces and pause to read a series of inspirational lines and poetry quotations painted on the walls of the buildings by Guido, a contemporary poet and local resident. Don’t forget to pay homage to Domenico Modugno, the famous Italian composer who sang and wrote the international hit “Volare”, born here and immortalized in a bronze statue facing the waves with arms outspread, eternally embracing the ocean.

The town is also known for the wondrous Grotta Palazzese. Today this natural sea cave hosts an elegant restaurant, where guests can dine on a ledge suspended over the sea. Anyone wishing to spend some free time here for lunch may do so by requesting a reservation in advance.

In the early afternoon rejoin your driver and reach the Archaeological Park of Egnazia, located on the coast near Savelletri, where you will explore the ruins of an ancient seaport town. Founded as far back as the 15th century BC by Bronze Age settlers, Egnazia was governed by the Messapian tribe from the 8th to the 3rd centuries BC, though it was during the later Roman occupation that the town enjoyed its golden age. Thanks to Egnazia’s thriving harbour and the strategic geographical position it occupies along the Traiana road, which used to link Benevento to Brindisi, the town became one of the ancient world’s most prosperous trade centres. After the fall of the Roman Empire Egnazia entered a prolonged period of decline and was eventually abandoned in the 10th century AD.

Despite ruthless lootings that occurred repeatedly throughout the 1800s, today the excavation site and annexed national museum still boast a wealth of treasures, offering a glimpse of the region’s thousand-year history. Remains of defence walls and necropolises provide us with priceless information about the Messapians’ customs and beliefs in the next life. Not to be missed are also the ruins of the ancient Via Traiana, the civic basilica, the thermal baths and forum, all precious evidence of how the city flourished under Roman rule. Inside the museum guests may inspect a striking collection of vases, amphorae, mosaics and artefacts recovered from the tombs and admire the marble head of Attis, the pride of Egnazia.

In the afternoon your private chauffeur will drive you back to your accommodation.