DAYS OF YORE

“You can’t move a single stone, it would be a crime”. This is how awestruck architect Le Corbusier expressed his appreciation when he first set foot in the splendid Piazza Vecchia in the upper town of Bergamo. Here, history oozes from every corner and echoes of horses’ hooves on the cobblestones, the clang of knights’ armour, the clink of prisoners’ chains still resonate in the streets. Don’t miss the chance to admire one of Lombardy’s most enchanting historic centres on a full-day excursion from Milan.

Clinging to the southern foothills of the Orobian Alps, in the very heart of northern Italy, Bergamo is a treasure trove of medieval and Renaissance wonders, immersed in a spectacular natural setting and, for the delight of gourmands, replete with an enticing spread of gastronomic specialities.

In the morning your chauffeur will pick you up at your accommodation and drive you to Bergamo. Your guide will be waiting by the funicular ready to lead you on an exploration of the historical upper town, still surprisingly intact after centuries. As you weave your way through the maze of narrow winding alleys, you will learn about the history of Bergamo, from its origins as a Celtic settlement to the peak of its fortunes under the rule of Milan and Venice, when the city bloomed and became the gem we can admire today.

Your tour will begin in Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe, a 15th century shoe market, where you will gain an introduction to city life in Bergamo, past and present. From here a pleasant walk will take you to the 14th century fortress offering stunning views of the surrounding verdant valleys. Amble along the charming streets flanked by irresistible eateries, quaint artisan shops and amazingly well preserved medieval tower-houses, and reach Piazza Vecchia. Built upon the ancient Roman forum and dominated by the Civic Tower and the 12th century Palazzo della Ragione, this square has been the political and social heart of the city for some 2,000 years. The adjacent Piazza Duomo boasts two of the old town’s most cherished monuments. According to tradition, the Romanesque Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore was erected by Bergamo’s citizens as a votive offering to the Madonna to give thanks for her protection from the 12th century plague. Inside it preserves a dizzying collection of works of art, spanning five centuries and ranging from Flemish tapestries to 14th century frescoes, from Baroque paintings to exquisitely inlaid marquetry. The nearby Colleoni Chapel, built at the request of mercenary captain Bartolomeo Colleoni, is a triumph of Renaissance architecture. Its construction in 1472 was strongly opposed by the clergy but Colleoni solved the problem in the traditional fashion, sending his soldiers to silence the protest and demolish the old sacristy, thus making room for his opulently decorated mausoleum. Don’t forget to touch Colleoni’s extravagant coat of arms on the gate, which is believed to bring good luck.

Make your way uphill and reach the last stop on your tour: the 14th century citadel bearing witness to the Visconti family’s domination over the town from 1332 to 1428. The complex was built not only as a defence against enemy attacks but as a place of refuge in case the town’s tide turned against the rulers themselves and, above all, as a proclamation of the Visconti’s unrivalled supremacy. The dreaded hunger tower with no openings on the ground floor, where traitors and debtors were once locked up and left to starve, still stands as a stark reminder of Bergamo’s “good old days.”

After the tour enjoy some free time for lunch then rejoin your driver for the ride back to Milan.