BEYOND THE TIBER

No trip to Rome would be complete without a guided tour of Trastevere with its maze of narrow cobblestone alleys, pavement cafes and bars, tiny restaurants and traditional workshops, not to mention washing lines that stretch across from one building to the next. Life spills out onto the streets here and while the district hums and bustles during the daytime, it is the night scene that attracts crowds of young people to the area at sundown. Trastevere or trans Tiberim, meaning beyond the Tiber, was once a strictly working class neighbourhood. Today it provides a heady mix of old and new, traditional and trendy, of rundown dilapidation and the very latest architectural design, of the mundane humdrum of everyday and an effervescent, inspirational explosion of colour and creativity. This neighbourhood is also the site of two American universities, Rome’s historic botanical gardens, the folklore museum, art galleries, numerous monuments, fountains, churches, piazzas and even a prison, housed in an ex-convent and named Regina Coeli, Queen of Heaven.

Your expert guide will lead you through the labyrinth of winding streets to Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, the very heart of the district. Carlo Fontana, who redesigned the portico of the ancient church in the 18th century, also created the octagonal fountain which graces the centre of the square and now serves as a popular meeting place. Inside the church you will see mosaics and marble columns that originally supported ancient Roman structures. Thought to be the first official place of Christian worship in all the city, it is full of captivating treasures and still very much part of community life today.

Another major landmark is Santa Cecilia in Trastevere, the church thought to be built on the site of her home. After failed attempts to burn her to death, Cecilia, the patron saint of music was decapitated here in 230 AD. Your guided walk will also take you past la Casa della Fornarina, believed to be the home of Margherita, Raphael’s famous model and mistress. Her reputation ruined, she took refuge in a convent after his death but you can still admire her in his paintings (if you happen to visit the Barberini Gallery). As you stroll through the area it would be hard to resist a peek at the river from Ponte Sisto, the footbridge, now well over 500 years old, that links this area to the rest of the city.

Villa Farnesina, one of the earliest Renaissance mansions built here and home of the wealthy banker Agostino Chigi, is a sheer delight and a must-see for visitors to Trastevere. The simplicity and harmony of the villa’s design combined with the classical-themed frescoes that decorate the walls and ceilings make this an unforgettable stop. In the loggia you will see and hear tales of Cupid and Psyche depicted on the vault, among greenery that suggests the garden is encroaching on the villa’s interior. Here the banker’s guests were treated to theatrical performances and elaborate shows. Downstairs you will meet Raphael’s irresistible Galatea and upstairs enjoy the illusion of looking out at scenes of Rome from behind Peruzzi’s painted marble columns.

Drenched in history and tradition, generously sprinkled with artistic gems and alive with contemporary delights, we think you’ll agree that Trastevere has earned its reputation as an all-time favourite with visitors to the city.