BEWARE OF THE CYCLOPS

To the north of Catania, between the two seaside towns of Aci Castello and Acireale, lie twelve kilometres of coastline, known as the Cyclops Riviera. Over thousands of years volcanic eruptions, the wind and waves have forged the impressive scenery we can admire today. Dramatic rock formations loom out of the limpid waters of the Ionian Sea sparking the imagination of the islanders and giving vent to the legends that have grown up around the area. Indeed, myth, history and natural beauty intertwine here, contributing to the long-lasting popularity of this fabled corner of Sicily. Soak up the charm of the Cyclops Riviera and steep yourself in the tales that envelop its sunny resorts on this excursion from Catania.

The area derives its name from the cyclops Polyphemus, the one-eyed giant son of the god of the sea Poseidon and the sea nymph Thoosa. As the Odyssey recounts, Ulysses and his crew were sailing along Sicily’s eastern coast when they were blown ashore by a violent storm. They quickly grabbed some of their food supplies and took refuge inside a nearby grotto. Little did they know that they had landed on the island of the Cyclops and the cave they had accessed was the home of the fearsome Polyphemus. The giant trapped the sailors and began eating them up one by one. In order to escape Ulysses drew up a plan. One night he plied Polyphemus with a very strong wine and, while the cyclops was fast asleep, blinded his eye with a burning log. Ulysses and his men then managed to sneak out of the cave by clinging to the bellies of the giant’s flock of sheep and escape to their ships. The blind and furious Polyphemus began ripping boulders from the side of Mount Etna and hurling them after Ulysses into the sea. These rocks, now known as the Faraglioni of Aci Trezza, rise just off the coast of this lively fishing village.

According to tradition, another curious myth would explain why nine towns in the area begin with the word Aci. The love affair between the beautiful sea nymph Galatea and the young shepherd boy Aci incited feelings of jealousy in the cyclops Polyphemus who had lost his head over the nymph too. Overcome with rage, in an act of revenge for Galatea’s refusal, the giant threw an enormous lava stone boulder at Aci, who died leaving his beloved nymph in despair. The gods took pity on the couple and turned Aci’s blood into a river and the nymph Galatea into sea foam, so that as the river met with the Ionian Sea, the lovers would be joined as one in an eternal embrace.

Your private guide and driver will meet you at your accommodation and lead you on a tour of the most famous towns of the Cyclops Riviera. You begin your day with a visit to Acireale, set at the foot of the volcano on old lava streams, high above the Ionian Sea. The town’s elegant historic centre, dating mostly from the 17th and 18th centuries, boasts several Baroque-style buildings. Here you can amble along the main thoroughfare, Corso Umberto, and saunter around Piazza del Duomo, the centre of Acireale’s religious and political life, pausing to admire the Cathedral of Maria Santissima Annunziata and the fine architectural details of the town hall. Not to be missed are also the elaborately decorated facade of the Basilica of San Sebastiano and the splendid sea views to be enjoyed from the public gardens of Villa Belvedere.

A short drive will then bring you to Aci Trezza. The main attractions of this town are undoubtedly its rocky beach, seafront promenade and quaint little harbour where hand-painted fishing boats bob gently in the waters against the backdrop of Polyphemus’ eight basaltic stacks.

After some free time for lunch reach Aci Castello, the final stop on this tour. The town is guarded by an 11th century Norman castle that gazes out towards the Mediterranean from atop a rocky spur. Take a stroll through the town and snap a last shot of Sicily’s legendary seascapes before returning to your accommodation in Catania.